Another thing I find interesting is how polygamy is a way of life here. This was shocking because it’s not commonplace in the South West. Here, it’s not a big deal if a man has 5 wives. And they have found a way to make it work- different apartments for the wives and stuff like that. Polygamy isn’t necessarily Fuji House of Commotion for them.— Bolu Fisayo
What is your favourite memory about the street that you grew up on?
I grew up in the Ilese Army Barracks in Ijebu Ode, Ogun State. Here, my neighbours and I had this Christmas Eve tradition. Our neighbours were directly beside our houses, there was no fence separating us. One Christmas Eve, we laid mats and blankets in front of our house, just beside the car park. My sister and I made popcorn, our neighbours brought snacks. One of the boys put a cloth over his head and acted like a scary ghost as we told stories. My sister and I tried to stick to the tradition, so, every Christmas Eve, we’d bring out our mats and blankets and tell stories just beside the car park. However, after a few years, we all grew up, and soon, it died on its own.
What is the longest you’ve ever had to travel for something?
Time-wise, it is Ijebu Ode to Akure. I have memories of my family going on road trips. Akure is 4 or 5 hours away by road, and it always felt like a long road trip. My mom made it fun because she’d make us try all these street foods like wara, adun, dodo ikire. We used to travel during the holidays when everybody was home. My dad wanted us to know Akure because that is where he grew up. He was in the Army, and he used to get posted around so we’d go and visit him. I remember us travelling to Ilorin, Owode to visit him. Akure just felt like the longest to me.
Distance-wise, the farthest I’ve travelled is from Ibadan to Abuja, but I did not go by road so it wasn’t long for me.
What is your daily commute?
I wake up by 6:15, and if I didn’t select an outfit the night before, I’d spend about 30 minutes deciding. I either book a ride to my PPA or walk to the estate junction. The estate is quite small so it takes me about 5 minutes to get to the junction. From there, I take a keke to Gudu and then a cab to Area 10. My PPA isn’t too far from the bus stop, it’s a 3-minute walk. On days when I’m running late, or I just do not want to walk under this Abuja sun, I book a ride. I go to my PPA 4 times a week. On the fifth day which is my CDS day, I always use an Along (cab). From Gudu, I take a cab to Area 1, and that is it.
My weekends are pretty chill. On days when I’m going out, I always take a ride. I think that using Bolt and Uber is easier and cheaper here, compared to Lagos. Transportation here is not that great as you may not find a cab that will take you to the exact place you are going to. So, it’s a lot easier to just put in your destination on the map, book a ride, and get there.
Car, okada, bus- what do you consider the best mode of transport for getting around Abuja?
The best for me is Bolt or Uber because they’ll take you to where you are trying to go directly, and that is even more beneficial if you don’t know how to get to where you are going. Cabs like Along will break the journey and you might still need to walk from the bus stop which might be really far. I remember when I took a cab and the driver dropped me at what he described as ‘the closest bus stop’ to my destination. I ended up trekking for over 20 minutes.
Money-wise, which is cheaper: cabs or rides?
Entering a cab is definitely cheaper. However, Bolt here is not as expensive as it is in Lagos. I can book a ride for as low as 500 Naira. Even at that, cabs are cheaper. Say, for instance, I’m going to my PPA in Garki. My estate in Kaura to Gudu costs ₦100. Then Gudu to my CDS costs ₦150, so that is ₦250. Whereas, if I were to take a ride, it’d cost between ₦800-₦1000.
What is the security situation with cabs? Is there a risk of your pockets getting picked?
I know you are asking this because you are a Lagos babe but, compared to Abuja, Lagos is the jungle (laughs). In fact, when I first got here, I noticed that the cab men were really nice. There was a time I took an Along from my PPA to Gudu, and I did not have change. It was a ₦150 ride and he said he didn’t have change. I was bracing myself up for him to shout and he just said ‘oh don’t worry about it, just go’. I was like ‘what?’. This happened to me twice. There was a time I took a cab but was unsure where I was going. When I told the driver, he offered to take me a little further. This ‘a little further’ should have cost me another ₦100 but he did not even collect it from me. That’s when I realised that people are nice in this city.
Lagos see your mate.
(Laughs). On the subject of picking pockets, I have never experienced it. I’ve heard stories of someone grabbing another person’s shawarma on a bike, or people licking icing sugar from someone else’s cake box. These are Lagos horror stories of course. I’ve never witnessed any theft or audacious behaviour, but that doesn’t mean they don’t happen here.
How is the social life in Abuja?
You have to have money, that’s what I’ll say. I’m not outside every weekend, but I try to live a little. I have a group of friends, and we do this thing where we go somewhere every month. To make the outing more affordable and fun, everybody brings a certain amount together. The first outing was a picnic at Children’s Park and Zoo. The eight of us brought ₦5000 each, some of us brought mats, and I brought pillows. It was a lot of fun, and it was a good way to socialise.
One time, we went for karaoke night. Having a group of friends where you all bring money together means that you can have fun without breaking the bank.
As someone who moved from Ibadan to Abuja only a year ago, how did you meet your friends?
In the NYSC camp, I met a few people from my school (University of Ibadan). I bumped into some people that I had met only in 100 Level. I was involved in a lot of activities during camp- volleyball, Red Cross- so I got to meet a lot of people. There was a guy who asked me to help take his pictures, and it turned out we had the same CDS location. One of my roommates and I bonded over the fact that her son and I share the same first name. I made a lot of friends in camp, and then I got to see some of them during CDS.
How was it navigating Abuja as a newcomer? Did you ever get lost?
Interestingly, no. It wasn’t that much of a struggle thanks to Google Maps and people who I could ask. I live with my aunt currently. I went to visit her at her place of work, and she described the route to and fro, so I just crammed it and I tweak it based on where I am going. I use Google Maps or ask questions. I also use Bolt because it is not so expensive here. Imagine my surprise when I found out I could get Bolt for as low as 500 Naira.
What is a notable difference between Ijebu Ode and Abuja?
The first thing I noticed was the road. The roads are wider here, you can have 4 lanes of cars. There are also a lot more recreational places to go to here. To be fair, I haven’t been to Ijebu Ode in recent times, but at the time, we mostly had supermarkets, hotels, and restaurants. In Abuja, we have a waterpark, a number of other parks, and restaurants. There are a lot more options.
That said, the sun here is hot! The weather was extra dry during the harmattan. After noticing how wide the roads were, the next thing that hit me was the sun. It stings. And to think that there are other places in the North that are hotter than this.
Also, this is my first time staying in a place with a lot of Northerners so it’s an opportunity to learn about them from them. Prior to coming here, the opinion I had of them were from things that I had heard.
What misconceptions or concerns did you have prior to moving to Abuja?
The biggest surprise was realizing that they are very nice people. I mean, the news associates the North with attacks, terrorism etc. All I knew about the Fulani people was the herdsmen crisis. My boss is Fulani, and he is the nicest person I have ever met.
Another thing I find interesting is how polygamy is a way of life here. This was shocking because it’s not commonplace in the South West. Here, it’s not a big deal if a man has 5 wives. And they have found a way to make it work- different apartments for the wives and stuff like that. Polygamy isn’t necessarily Fuji House of Commotion for them.
In terms of language, how are you acclimatizing?
They speak Hausa here. I cannot count the number of times people have assumed that I am Hausa, specifically from Plateau State. Sometimes, they start speaking Hausa to me because I ‘look like a Jos girl’. And, in the market, when I started speaking English to this man, he wanted to overcharge me and sell agbalumo for 300 Naira.
The cost of living here is something to think about. Transportation is more expensive here compared to Ibadan. Housing here is for the rich. You need a lot of money to get a good house or apartment. People who don’t have a lot of money have to stay in farther places from town, the outskirts. Food is cheaper in some markets than in others.
What is one distinct, irreplaceable feature of Abuja?
Well, I’ll say the traffic. It almost does not exist here. Here, you can get to work in 15 minutes. The longest I have spent in traffic is 10 minutes, and that was because a car had spoilt somewhere along the road. And, to them, that was hectic traffic because they don’t experience traffic at all.
I should add that I recently moved a little farther from town, and there is actually traffic in the mornings before work hours and in the evenings around closing hours because a lot of people are moving from here to town and then back.
When was the last time you visited a new part of Abuja?
I went to the African Arts and Crafts Market. It used to be at Jabi, but they moved to a place at Idu. I personally find excitement in little things, so I recently went to a place called Pottery Village in Bwari. I’ve always wanted to go, but it is all the way in Bwari which is an hour away from me. But then, my sister came to Abuja, and we went to visit my uncle who lives in Bwari. So, it just made sense to use the opportunity. It felt like a road trip, and it just took me back to my life as a child. I learnt pottery and made my own jug for just ₦2000. And then I got a tour of the place for another ₦2000. The only thing is you cannot get your pot immediately. You’d have to wait for 2 or 3 weeks, depending on what you make. It was really calm, nice, and peaceful. If you are ever looking to be away from people, you should check it out.
What is an obvious part of Abuja that you have never visited?
There is this new waterpark, Aqualand, in Central Park. I was looking forward to going there even before they opened it because I was intrigued by Xtreme Waterparks on Travel Channel. Central Park is a full experience because they have GoKarts, bicycles, Virtual Reality Games, arcades, restaurants etc. I haven’t gone there yet because of the price, but I’m planning towards it.
What is one place in Nigeria that everyone should visit before they turn 20?
I haven’t been to a lot of places, to be honest. For me, Idanre Hills is a really special place. You can see the whole city from the top of the hill. I’ve been there twice with my family and it’s an experience I haven’t been able to forget. Akure, where the hills are located, was a very calm, chill community. It’s a really beautiful place with a lot of rocks and mountains. There are some churches and houses on the rocks, but I look forward to someone developing a part of it into a recreation centre.
What is an Abuja route that you know by heart?
From my house in Kaura to Area 1 where my CDS is. I walk from my house to the estate junction where I take Keke to Gudu. From Gudu, I take a cab that drops me at Area 1 Park. I think Area 1, more than anywhere in Abuja, needs public toilets. I haven’t seen one public toilet since I got here. I hold my breath and run from the park to the garden where my CDS is. The men here pee any, and everywhere, it’s crazy. It makes me question if there’s a biological difference in our bladder design.
What is one thing you always look forward to seeing on my street?
Let me start with what I do not look forward to seeing- dust! The road in my estate is not tarred so it’s really dusty. I feel like if I walk without facemasks for a month, my lungs will turn to cement.
I like that I can watch the sunrise from my room. It’s a very clear view so I can literally just wake up early, sit by my window and watch the sunrise without obstructions. I look forward to it in the mornings.
I also like how small my estate is. My house is a 3-minute walk from the junction so it feels like a very private estate.
What is the most you have had to pay to get from one place to another in Abuja?
10,000 Naira. I can explain (laughs). I was coming from camp to pick up my luggage at my Uncle’s house in Bwari. So I took a ride from camp to Bwari, asked the driver to wait for me for a bit, and then I took the ride back to Kaura.
What do you wish you could change about Abuja?
Transportation. The bus stops are quite far apart. Some of the cab men use their personal vehicles, and that is not very safe. So anyone can just stop by the roadside and pretend to be a cab guy.
The last location I texted or tweeted is where you’ll live next. It is — — — — — — —
I recently posted about this really pretty frozen yoghurt place in Wuse. Its really colourful so I’m not mad at all.
Bolu is a recent graduate of the University of Ibadan who moved to Abuja for her service year. She enjoys skincare, baking, and hanging with her friends.
About Routes
Routes by GatePass is mapping African stories one route at a time. This project sits at the intersection of life stories and mobility in African contexts. Through Routes, we explore how African lives are shaped by mobility, migration, journeys, and modes of transport; and how places take on the stories of the people who have visited or passed through them.
Do you or someone you know have an interesting mobility story? Do you have a hack for moving around your city, or know something about your city’s history that not too many people know? Tell your story. We’re open to submissions and looking forward to reading!
Email: routes[at]gatepass[dot]io
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Editorial Team
Editor / Publisher — Wale Lawal
Sub-Editor — Muyideen Dosumu
Interviewer — Ore Oyinlola
Illustrator — David Akinyemi
