Route 011: Yasmeen
I haven’t been to the ocean in two years. One of my goals is to go across the ocean’s breadth. My mom had a friend in Shela and both of them used to swim across the ocean every day. For me, I love the sea and everything about Lamu. My dad is a fisherman so I was around water a lot. But if you have dreams and ambitions, you have to explore them outside. I had to come to Nairobi to start my career.— Yasmeen, Lamu.
Our questions are italicised.
What is your favourite memory about the street you grew up in?
I grew up in Lamu where I was born. My favourite memory is a party I hosted for my tenth birthday. I’m Muslim and my family was quite strict so the party was a big deal for me. I loved my friends and I was looking forward to us growing up together. Unfortunately, as time went on, we all had to leave Lamu. My birthday party fills me with nostalgia because it was one of the last times I was with all my friends.
What was growing up in Lamu like?
It was perfect! Lamu is a small island next to Shela Village here in Kenya. It is the first stop for most visitors because they can get a bit of everything. Tourists could experience the feel of an exotic Island without losing the depth of our culture. Lamu is a peaceful place and it just feels me with nostalgia. Now, because of civilization, its becoming more nosy and busy. But before, it was a break from the rowdiness of the world.
For example, we have motorbikes in the town now. Before, all we had were bicycles and donkeys for transport. My brothers were with the donkeys all the time. Also, if you’re coming from the city to Lamu, you have to use the sea because we are surrounded by water.
Why did you leave Lamu?
I left because of school. I had my basic education in Lamu, then I moved to study in Mombasa for 7 years After, I moved back to continue my studies in Lamu for some years before going to Malindi. My studies have been up and down. The way Lamu is structured, you have to go outside the town to get quality education.
What is one distinct, irreplaceable feature of Lamu?
The environment. Personally, I love the ocean. In Lamu, I can swim. Whenever the weather gets really hot, I just go into the ocean and take a dip for free. Here in Mombasa, there’s a gate at the beach that controls who comes in and who does not. At 6 in the evening, you can’t swim there. In Lamu, you can swim at midnight. I remember when I was growing up, I attended a wedding with my friends and we went from the wedding to the ocean. It was always ‘oh, what do we do today? Let us go to the beach’. There was nobody stopping us and all that.
What is the longest you have had to travel for something?
When Al Shabab came to Lamu, the roads became very busy. The schools were closed and we had to go from Malindi to be with our family in Lamu. I was sitting on the bus for about 8 hours. It hurts me, physically, to even remember. The worst thing was the constant checks. We had to come down at intervals for police to check our IDs and clothes. Even if you started your journey at 5am in a bid to arrive early, they would stop you at the station until the people at the checkpoint resume duty. The checkpoints were usually hours apart. So, say you leave your house at 5am. You’d have to wait till when the officers resumed by 10am to clear all the cars on the line. If for some reason, you arrived at 10:25, you’d have to wait till the next checkpoint time which might not start until 3pm.
I don’t know what it is about Kenya that needs to make everything so hard. I remember there was an old man that looked quite feeble during one of my trips. The policeman kept shouting ’everybody get out and form a line!’ even when he knew it would be difficult for the man.
So, if you take into account the bad roads and constant stops, it was not a fun trip. It was especially difficult for me because I get car sick. So by the time I get home, I’m just like ‘help me, where’s the bed?’.
What is your favourite thing about Lamu
This is a tough one.
I’d say the food. We have different types of meals, sweet food. We have a lot of meals made with oils, coconuts, rice- while you’re there, just forget about keeping your diet.
Lamu is a paradise but I had to come to Nairobi to, you know, find money.
What is your daily commute?
Everyday, I take the matatus (commercial mini buses) to the gym and start my shift. I leave towards the beginning of evening classes, typically around 6. This is election period so things are quite slow. I’m trying to incorporate hiking and camping into my routine because I love nature. I went for my first hike in December and it was a lot of fun.
What is a notable difference between the city you grew up in and where you live in now?
So, I grew up in Lamu and I live in Nairobi now. To start, Nairobi is a lot more expensive than Lamu. I‘m talking about the cost of living, like rent. Lamu is more affordable.
Nairobi is also really active and vibrant. I can’t say things are moving fast but people are really moving with speed. Lamu, on the other hand, is quite a chill place.
What is the best way of getting around Nairobi?
I don’t have a car so I don’t know what that experience is like. But I have been using matatus but its quite hard for me because, as I mentioned, I get car sick. Last week, I had to walk for a long time because I could not find a matatu. Bodas (commercial motorcycles) are a great option if you’re trying to get somewhere quickly, but they are not safe. They drive right into the middle of traffic just to get to their destination. I, however, try to get somebody who I can trust on the road. it is risky. Sometimes I use Ubers and I’d say it is the best.
Does your gender affect how you travel in any way?
Oh definitely. for example, I can’t go out so late at night. This is also a result of how the city is. I’m new to Nairobi and I don’t know who is whom. Sometimes, I’m scared I’ll get kidnapped or something. I’m scared of going out and coming back late as a woman because there are a lot of ways they can harm us. I feel safer when I’m with a man. But alone? Not really.
Along with my gender, I face a lot of discrimination because of my skin colour. I’d say this is even my first challenge. Because I am light-skinned, people assume I am rich. If I ask a boda boda (commercial motorcycle) to take me somewhere, they’ll charge me extra.
Also, I move around with my abaya. I’m surrounded by Christians in my neighbourhood. They don’t alienate me but I attract a lot of stares. Sometimes, I want to change and be less conspicuous but there’s nothing I can do about it.
What is one distinct, irreplaceable feature of Nairobi?
I’ve only lived in Nairobi for a short while. I’ve come to know Nairobi as somewhere with a lot of places you can go. Look at how I went hiking and camping. I met a lot of nice people and made new friends.
When last did you visit a new street?
I’m indoors most of the time. I’m only motivated to step out when I have company and people I can do an activity with. So, the last time I visited anywhere new is when I went camping and hiking in December.
What is an obvious part of Nairobi that you have never visited?
Gikomba. It is a thrift market that sells ridiculously cheap clothes. The main reason I haven’t gone there is that it is not safe. If you go there, you have to be really security conscious and only go with things that you can part with. And again, the assumptions because of my skin colour.
For instance, I went to a market with one of my darker-skinned friends. When I asked for something, they gave me higher prices than they were giving her. Its really annoying and unfair. I’m not a really good haggler, so there’s that as well.
What’s the most you’ve had to pay to get from one place to another in Nairobi?
Ubers prices are generally so high. I wanted to take one from my house to Kiambu but when I saw what Uber was charging me-1000ksh to go and 1500ksh to come back- I just had to take a matatu because it was a lot cheaper. The price discourages me from going out most of the time.
What is one place that everyone should visit before they turn 20?
Definitely Lamu. If you go in the ocean with a boat, there is a place where you can play with the dolphins. You can go in there and swim with your lifejacket. I think everyone should go sailing with the boat crew- you see the sunset on the water, you eat sea food, you swim, you feed the fish. We have sharks but they are mostly at the bottom, they don’t come to the surface. I have seen quite a few, but mostly dead ones.
I haven’t been to the ocean in two years. One of my goals is to go across the ocean’s breadth. My mom had a friend in Shela and both of them used to swim across the ocean every day. For me, I love the sea and everything about Lamu. My dad is a fisherman so I was around water a lot. But if you have dreams and ambitions, you have to explore them outside. I had to come to Nairobi to start my career.
What is something you know about Lamu that not so many people know?
There are a lot of Islands around Lamu and you have to move around with a boat. Once, I walked along the ocean with a group of friends. It was a long trek. the sand at the sea is not dry and it squeezes you, in a sense. Now, its a tourist attraction and we have resorts and fancy hotels. In fact, our last president who just stepped down owns some of the land there. There’s also a lot of seafood, you know, fish, lobster. The fish here in Nairobi is not like the one fresh from the ocean.
What is a Lamu route you know by heart?
I’d say walking from Lamu to Shela. I have family in both places and i studied in Shela for a bit. On Fridays, I’d walk to Lamu. and on Mondays. I’d walk back to Shela from as early as 6am so I can be in madrasa (Islamic school). But now, I can get lazy and take a boda.
What is one thing you always look forward to seeing on your street?
I stay in Kawangware and its quite a busy place with markets. What gives me joy here, mostly, is the women. The ladies, mothers, they wake up early and organise their stalls. And it only gets busier in the evenings. Watching the older women work motivates me. I think, ‘ah, if she’’s doing it at her age, nicely and lovingly, why not me?’.
Every morning I see them and I wonder what time they arrive. No matter how early I step out, they’re already there with their chapati or greens and whatnot.
The last location you texted or tweeted is where you will live next. It is _____
Switzerland. I was dreaming of travelling there. It’s one of the places I’m looking forward to visiting, alongside Morocco and London.
Yasmeen is a fitness trainee and coach at AlphaFit. She is passionate about women’s empowerment and spreading positive vibes.
About Routes
Routes by GatePass is mapping African stories one route at a time. This project sits at the intersection of life stories and mobility in African contexts. Through Routes, we explore how African lives are shaped by mobility, migration, journeys, and modes of transport; and how places take on the stories of the people who have visited or passed through them.
Do you or someone you know have an interesting mobility story? Do you have a hack for moving around your city, or know something about your city’s history that not too many people know? Tell your story. We’re open to submissions and looking forward to reading!
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Editorial Team
Editor / Publisher — Wale Lawal
Sub-Editor — Ore Oyinlola
Interviewer — Muyideen Dosumu
Illustrator — David Akinyemi
